I walked out of Busan Station with no plan. Within five minutes of asking a local friend what to eat, the answer came fast: "Milmyeon. You have to go to the original." Milmyeon—a Busan specialty of chewy wheat noodles served cold, either in broth (mul milmyeon) or mixed with spicy paste (bibim milmyeon)—is as essential to Busan as kimbap is to Gimbap alley. It's the kind of dish that tastes the same everywhere in Seoul, but tastes like home only in one place. That place, I was told, was Wonjo Busan Milmyeon, a one-minute walk from the station. The Address That Matters Wonjo Busan Milmyeon sits at the entrance to Choryang Traditional Market, a sprawl of vendor stalls and narrow aisles that has been feeding Busan locals since the 1950s. The restaurant is impossible to miss—it's right next to Hana Bank, and the street-facing window shows a kitchen that's been doing the same thing for decades. Address: 1F, 7 Jungangdae-ro 231beon-gil, Dong-gu, Busan Nearest station:...